Udayagiri and Khandagiri, magnificent caves of the ancient times

We were making a full circle of a drive around the historic places that dot the land of Odisha, especially around the state capital, Bhubaneswar. Having had our exposure to a slice of rock beauty abundant at Konark, we made a plan to see just one more ancient relic of this place.

Too many would dilute the beauty of history.

Udayagiri caves still holding itself, built more than 2000 years ago at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Udayagiri caves still holding itself, built more than 2000 years ago***

Here we go…Drove from Puri to Bhubaneswar and traveled further 8 kilometres to see these caves. I came with my parents, about twenty plus years ago and all I remembered was the names. Little interest I had when in school so it was just like a checklist to me..ok, we visited this and this and this …However, with far more historical data points pumped in me over the years, I had to see these caves of a bygone era.We picked up the wrong time though to visit; the heat coupled with the salt and water-laden air, the weather was far from perfect…the calendar page fluttered around early October.

Typically, what I have seen in India, the old historic structures stay far from the modern cityscape. These caves stand amidst the current vibrant times and present the visitor, a unique feeling. We were standing on a 1st to 4th century BC rock piece and looking at the skyscrapers that have mushroomed on the capital city’s horizon of 2015.

Squinted eyes trying to evade the sun rays, look at Bhubaneswar as we stood on Udayagiri at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Squinted eyes trying to evade the sun rays, look at Bhubaneswar as we stood on Udayagiri***

As you drive down Khandagiri temple road, the Udayagiri caves fell on our right and the Khandagiri caves were bang opposite Udayagiri on the left. It has decent parking in front, and we parked our Swift and crossed the road.

From the road, the caves do not have any presence..all we could see was a rocky mount with a lot of trees around it.

The first thing that attracted our attention was the board from ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) which welcomes you with a host of historical data.

ASI board give us a good snapshot view of what we will be seeing inside at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***ASI board give us a good snapshot view of what we will be seeing inside***

The enclosure within which these caves reside is very neatly decorated and we saw a rocky road with a gentle gradient…quite comfortable for visitors to walk it.

We climbed this road created from rock and took us near the Rani Gumpha at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***We climbed this road created from rock and took us near the Rani Gumpha***

We trudged along with it and came to an opening which had a flat U shaped structure or excavation which was jutting out of the rocks and was two-storied held with evenly placed pillars that supported the heavy rock bases.

Rani Gumpha, the cave 1, as they say, has exquisitely designed sculptures and offered air-conditioned ambient air when we climbed into it at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Rani Gumpha, the cave 1, as they say, has exquisitely designed sculptures and offered air-conditioned ambient air when we climbed into it***

Rani Gumpha explained down to every detail at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Rani Gumpha explained down to every detail***

Every entrance or opening has a human structure engraved into the rock body, and our guide told us that these are ‘Dvarapala‘ or sentries guarding the entrance to the chambers inside.

Dwarpals engraved and stand tall beside the doorway at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Dwarpals engraved and stand tall beside the doorway***

The walls were ornate beyond comprehension, both inside and outside, some places were devastatingly beautiful. It kept us wondering how before the metals were present, these were created with rock pieces with bare hands…can you imagine?

Carved out of rock, these figures depict king Kharavela's conquests at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Carved out of rock, these figures depict king Kharavela‘s conquests***

Figures of geese holding flowers, athletes in various poses, elephants..every bit still near intact and curved with precision at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Figures of geese holding flowers, athletes in various poses, elephants..every bit still near intact and curved with precision***

Each room or chamber had partitions and what we learned acted like motels for traveling Jain and Buddhist monks. Built by Kharavela, the famous Kalinga ruler at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Each room or chamber had partitions and what we learned acted like motels for traveling Jain and Buddhist monks. Built by Kharavela, the famous Kalinga ruler***

The height of the caves, the space from the floor to the roof was quite less. A tall person will have a challenge to move around. This points to a data point, I guess, the monks or whoever stayed in these caves had short stature.

I had to take this picture sitting on the stone bench, and the environment was so cool and calm. I sat there for an hour thinking about the very bench...who sat and built these so many years ago..sheer thought gave me the creeps at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — I had to take this picture sitting on the stone bench, and the environment was so cool and calm. I sat there for an hour thinking about the very bench…who sat and built these so many years ago..sheer thought gave me the creeps!

A view from the ancient veranda overlooking the rocky first floor..perhaps the king sat here, or roamed around and spoke to the subjects whom he ruled at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***A view from the ancient veranda overlooking the rocky first floor..perhaps the king sat here, or roamed around and spoke to the subjects whom he ruled***

In one room, we saw a well dug into the floor which was in turn connected to another upright passage..this indicated the reason why the caves were so cool during the summer. It had state of the art engineering in those days..by way of these passages the water was circulated along with the structure and the power came through gravity as electric power was a far cry in ancient days.

Rocky passages in the stone floor which probably supported the circulation of water to the monks who stayed here at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Rocky passages in the stone floor which probably supported the circulation of water to the monks who stayed here***

Elephant carvings on the rock face in one of the chambers at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Elephant carvings on the rock face in one of the chambers***

Partly damaged but more or less intact, a victory scene in one of the caves where we saw figures of soldiers with bows and arrows pushing a horse coming back from a battle at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Partly damaged but more or less intact, a victory scene in one of the caves where we saw figures of soldiers with bows and arrows pushing a horse coming back from a battle***

Water and air passages dug on the floor to the entrances to provide supplies to the Jain monks who stayed in these cave quarters at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Water and air passages dug on the floor to the entrances to provide supplies to the Jain monks who stayed in these cave quarters***

A cave with an opening in the rock bed to circulate cool air to both the floors was created for the comfort of the Jain monks.. an example of ancient air conditioning at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***A cave with an opening in the rock bed to circulate cool air to both the floors was created for the comfort of the Jain monks.. an example of ancient air conditioning***

The engineering marvel that we saw in these caves were present such a long time ago shows the skills the artisans had and used to create these structures. Even today in the heat outside rising to about 42 degrees centigrade; the caves were cooler by twenty degrees which we experienced ourselves.

We came across another set of caves called Ganesa Gumpha with rock elephants as if welcoming the Jain monks who stayed in these chambers at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***We came across another set of caves called Ganesa Gumpha with rock elephants as if welcoming the Jain monks who stayed in these chambers***

A veranda in front with two solitary elephants are seen holding mango trees with a lotus in the center, perhaps a welcome gesture to the Jain monks at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***A veranda in front with two solitary elephants are seen holding mango trees with a lotus in the center, perhaps a welcome gesture to the Jain monks***

Intricately curved rock buttress holding the rock roof above, seen here ravaged by elements of nature but still strong enough and better engineered than today's marvels we see with computer-aided designs at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — Intricately curved rock buttress holding the rock roof above, seen here ravaged by elements of nature but still strong enough and better engineered than today’s marvels we see with computer-aided designs

The low ceiling cave quarter had a unique capability here, anyone standing on this bench and speaking could be heard far away due to the resonance the sound created.The tick was a vacuum created on the roof which spread the sound waves at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — The low ceiling cave quarter had a unique capability here, anyone standing on this bench and speaking could be heard far away due to the resonance the sound created.The tick was a vacuum created on the roof which spread the sound waves

A huge rock outcrop had these 117 line inscriptions from 4th century BC, probably Brahmi script conveying historical facts about the Karavela king at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***A huge rock outcrop had these 117 line inscriptions from 4th century BC, probably Brahmi script conveying historical facts about the Karavela king***

After a brilliant historical joyride through a passage of time, 2000 years ago we came to the hill of Khandagiri. We did not find much to be seen, apart from huge broken rock pieces. We did come across a Jain temple on the hilltop.

We were seeing the Udayagiri rock caves from Khandagiri hill, entombed in its rocky layers amidst trees at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***We were seeing the Udayagiri rock caves from Khandagiri hill, entombed in its rocky layers amidst trees***

We felt quite young at this point after climbing, jumping, and experiencing such a vivid sculpture on rocks. The physical activity definitely helped all of us to shed at least a kilo of excess fat that we usually carry.

Khandagiri's present inhabitant, very polished and tourist friendly..it will be a good idea to meet them in a group rather alone at Bhubaneshwar, Odissa, India by Gautam Lahiri — ***Khandagiri’s present inhabitant, very polished and tourist friendly..it will be a good idea to meet them in a group rather alone***

After having gallons of water, we retired into our metal cave of Swift and drove back to Puri.

Hope you enjoyed the eclectically designed rocky system, the dwellers carved out in an era where no one of us existed.

Shades of an explorer

Udayagiri and Khandagiri, magnificent caves of the ancient times

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Udayagiri and Khandagiri, magnificent caves of the ancient times

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